Impressions of a Bicycle Ride across the USA in 1991

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Route Map

Diary

22May91 Every journey starts with the first steps. In this case: with a bicycle being moved - for now - at Frankfurt Rhein Main Airport on its way to Dulles Int'l Airport near Washington D.C..
23May91 I tried to overcome my jet lag at my auntie's home in Maryland. Checking the bike and the gear.
24May91 At a visit to Washington D.C.: silent sorrow at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial (better known as "The Wall") and how to make money of it. A little lesson: at the Lincoln Memorial bicycles are not welcome; you will be thrown out. Whereas in the National Gallery of Art at least some bicycle are accepted.
25May91 Last day of relaxing with a little test ride (30km in 80 minutes).
26May91 Slowly it becomes serious. A last farewell to my aunt near Dawn, Va. and I' on my own. Arrival in Williamsburg, Va., where our tour officially begins with a first group meeting. Gene and Lynn are still laughing. Gene's mood changed a little bit, after he "won" in our Common Utensils Lottery the big pot, which had to be integrated in his gear somehow. The first of many "map meetings" to come. Our first indoor night at the Wesley Foundation.  (95km)
27May91 A first shakeout ride into the Historical Triangle. If it were not for the plastic buckets, couldn't this picture have been taken 200 years ago (Yorktown, Va.)? A dunking (or baptizing?) in the waters of the Atlantic Ocean. To be honest: in the water of the Chesapeake Bay, the far most eastern point of our trip. Our first outdoor night at the Jamestown Beach Campsite Resort. (57km)
28May91 Ed on his way up to Scotland, Va. on our side trip to Surry, peanut country. A partial group photo taken at the Jamestown Ferry (with - from left to right - Hugo, Lynn, Gene, Ed, Dave, Paul, Volker and Linda). Our place for the night: on (!) the cemetery at Glendale Willis Church. (79km)
29May91 Passing Cold Harbor Battlefield to Ashland, Va.This night our campsite is by far noisier than last night's. Never-ending traffic noise from the IS-95, close-by. (72km)
30May91 With a temperature of 37 degrees Celsius we all enjoyed a swim in Lake Anna, Va. We also enjoyed our stay in the air-conditioned hall of St. Jude's church in Mineral, Va. (89km)
31May91 On the road at 07:10 already to avoid the heat of high noon. Mailboxes in Pendleton, Va. Stay at Charlottesville Kampground of America (KOA), with a swimming pool, filled with cool refreshing water ... (88km)
01Jun91 We are improving: already on the road at 07:05 this morning. In the morning sun: Dave and Gene and Ed on our way to Monticello, former US President Jefferson's home (here: the kitchen), now a museum. Getting into the Appalachian Mountains, our road became steeper and  I sometimes had to "walk my bike". Stay at the "Cookie Lady" in Afton, Va. First public rehearsal of our bike group's national anthems (e.g. "Pedaling, pedaling, pedaling" [RealAudio, 309kB, 5:14]), here with Gene, Lynn and Ralph and Peter and Linda. (88km)
02Jun91 We are getting better each morning: 06:50, a final photo of the Cookie Lady's home and we are on our way up to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Steep descent to Vesuvius. Stay at a camp ground close to Lexington, Va. (93km)
03Jun91 First layover day. Visit to the Lee Chapel and to the Marshall Museum in Lexington. First small bike repairs. (min. 30km)
04Jun91 One of the very few bike route signs on our way.  Peter helping Gerry with transmission problems at his bike. This road goes on top of that Natural Bridge! Gerry and Gene, having supper at Bethel Camp. (76km)
05Jun91 Gerry pushes his bike up the steepest ascent of our complete tour in Christiansburg, Va. Only 3 of our group of 12 managed to pedal up their bike. Campsite at Claytor Lake. (131km)
06Jun91 Hilly roads. Lunch in Wytheville. Campsite 3km after Sugar Grove. Ed blames "tree frogs" for his fart noises. We have a topic for our small talks at the camp fire and a name for our group: the Tree Frogs. (109km)
07Jun91 Rustic breakfast (with Linda, Lynn and Ed and Gerry, Ralph and Dave). Peter and Rinny repackaging to get rid of some extra luggage. I made a small side trip to the Tennessee State Line (one more state on my checklist ...). Arrival in Elk Garden Methodist Church, with a nice Bikers' Hostel sign in the front. A bad news: Gene has to quit the tour due to some major kidney problems. (115km)
08Jun91 Beautiful hilly scenery after Honaker, Va. Overnight stay at Breaks Interstate Park, with some live bluegrass music performances. (79km)
09Jun91 Morning mist at Breaks Interstate park. First "official" crossing of a state line, to Kentucky. Directly along the "coal mines of Kentucky", as sung by Janis Joplin in her "Me and Bobby McGee". Luckily it's Sunday, without heavy truck traffic. After some nasty ascents arrival in Pippa Passes. (114km)
10Jun91 Now it's Monday, with heavy truck traffic. Arrival at Joe Paulis' church in Booneville, Ky. (119km)
11Jun91 Silent roads today. Countryside. Arrival in the Oh Kentucky Campground in Berea, Ky. Celebrating Gerry's 63rd birthday. (103km)
12Jun91 Layover day. My schedule for the day: some laundry, Berea Visitor Center, a guided tour through the Berea College, Appalachian Museum. Lunch at Mario's (Eat pizza - as much as you can. Mario couldn't have earned a lot today - with us as customers.)
13Jun91 Still hot: 35 degrees centigrade at 13:00. Our target: Lincoln Homestead State park. (134 km)
14Jun98 Passing through Bardstown, the "Bourbon Capital of the World". Nice smell all over. Visited Lincoln's birthplace. Our target: White Mills Christian Camp. (140km)
15Jun98 Every creek is followed by an uphill, every river by a very uphill ... First change of timezones, from EDT to CDT. At 17:30 arrival at the St. Mary's church in Whitesville. Picked up first mail from my girl friend and my parents. (108km)
16Jun98 First real rain since our start in Williamsburg: three warm summer showers. Dave relaxing east of Beech grove, Ky. One more extraordinary stay tonight: the Sebree Fire Department, amongst fire engines. (78km)
17Jun98 Lots of road kill. Sometimes you smell it, before you see it. Ferry over the Ohio river, to Cave in Rock, Il. How did this town get its name? See! As you might notice, my bike has no fancy 24 gear transmission, but only a good reliable Fichtel-Sachs 5 gear transmission hub with back kick brake. Did some bike repairs (e.g. replacing a few broken spokes) in the camp ground nearby. (95km)
18Jun98 Breakfast in the rain. Passing through Eddyville, Il. Cedar Lake Camping. Dave relaxing in his hanging mats. (89km)
19Jun91 Bad road surfaces. Short stop in Giant City, Il. 14:00 arrival at Dane Phillips' Home in Carbondale. Supper in a chinese restaurant, "Eat as much as you can" for $5.49 ... and we could a lot! The "Bike Surgeon" of Carbondale convinced me to get my rear wheel completely  respoked to get rid of my breaking spokes ("Better force flow..."). (90km)
20Jun91 Lay-Over day. Due to the state of the old gloves I had to buy some new ones. And a pair of sandals; the old ones became to worn out. I should mention, that I pedaled without any special bike system shoes, but only with my "birks". Drove by car to the Giant City State Park. (0km - my bike was not moved today!)
21Jun91 A day full of stress. After a short stop at Ed Bower's gas station the rear wheel was blocked! As I noticed back home, the internal brake cylinder must have been overheated at the descent to Vesuvius (see 02Jun91) and a little piece cracked off. No major problem. I replaced the hub by a spare one, which I carried with me (2 kg extra load!). When I wanted to pump up the tire again, the pump was missing. I must have "lost" it in Carbondale. The compressor of the gas station didn't fit to my valves, only the forth pump we tried  fitted finally. Chester City Park. Don Kennedy popped up, already informed about my bad luck. He managed to weld some broken part of my saddle and sold me a fitting pump (which I use still today, in 1998). (75km)
22Jun91 Still in Chester, a statue of Popeye, the Sailor, (the creator of Popeye, Elzie C. Segar, was born in Chester) invited for a comparison. We crossed the mighty Mississippi. For many in our party it was the first time to be so far to the west. Missouri (pronounced like "misery"?) ahead. Never trust a dog, especially when it doesn't bark! Our target: Pilot Knob. (117km)
23Jun91 Fort Davidson. Worth a side trip: Elephant Rocks State Park. A second break in the heat of the day: Johnson's Shut-in State park, with many natural whirl-pools. Many ups and downs in the Ozark mountains, like roller coasting. Centerville. (52km)
24Jun91 Made my maximum downhill speed this day: 80km/h! Our destination today is a campsite close to Eminence, Mo., next to the banks of Jacks Fork river. One more relaxing swim in the clear green-blue water (Gerry, Volker, Rinny). (80km)
25Jun91 One more first time event on this lay-over day: canoeing! Starting in Alley Spring at 08:40, we soon learn to handle the boats. Lynn and Ralph capsized shortly after this picture was taken. We bravely rescue them ... Some nasty "sweepers" (trees you can't pass on the river) and horse flies made life interesting. Back in the campground at 16:30.
26Jun91 Enjoyed the view after climbing the watchtower after Alley Spring. Whenever you see signs like this, inviting to a friendly bike stop, follow them! This one was erected by the "Dragon Lady", Mrs. Philips, close to Sumersville, Mo. We had nice talks with her and her husband, refilled our bottles and recharged our emotional batteries. Our target: the Emytt Kelley Park in Houston, Mo. (75km)
27Jun91 Gentle hills, partly rough road, getting hotter during the day. Marshfield City Park, with free public pool. Great! (113km)
28Jun91 I left the camp as the last one, as early as 07:50! Little rest in Walnut Grove, Mo (with Ralph and Rinny). We stay in the "rustic" City Park of Everton, Mo, with showers 2km away and huge spiders in the out house nearby. (93km)
29Jun91 I left the camp as last one again, even earlier then yesterday: 07:25! We cross the Kansas state line. Nice tail wind from south-west. Area flattens, less hilly. First stop at Cooky's in Golden City, where we all met for pieces of pumpkin pie or so. Bought ten more spare spokes. The spokes in the rear bike keep cracking. Pittburg, Mo. (109km)
30Jun91 It's getting worse each morning! 07:05 and we are on the road again! Wind is still blowing from south-west, but now - as usual - as head wind. It's hot (43 degrees centigrade); so we are not sure if this traffic sign is a fata morgana. We reach our campsite in Chanute, Ks, at 14:10. Two "Iron Horses". After asking for the greatest attraction in Chanute, I visited the Safari Museum. Dialog with the girls selling tickets at the museum entrance: "Your museum is supposed to be the biggest attraction in town." "Oh, we don't think so." "So what do you think is the biggest one?" "We think it's the Wal Mart." "Oh, come on! There are Wal Marts in all bigger cities here around." "Yes, but this is the biggest Wal Mart in south east Kansas." I stopped asking ...  - Cold salad only for supper, for it's to windy for our little stoves. (97km)
01Jul91 It's still hot. And Kansas is not flat! A typical picture: hay and oil pumps. Arrival in Eureka City Park at 16:00. Supper with summer storm. (106km)
02Jul91 Strong head winds. Breakfast in a diner in Rosalia. By replacing a broken spoke I noticed a crack in the rear wheel rim between three spoke holes. Frightening! I blame it on the operation made 19Jul91 ... Arrival in the City Park in Newton at 15:45. Some impressions of a fair at the city park: "Fool the Guesser" or How to make money: you pay him a buck; if he guesses your weight or age correctly, the buck is him's, otherwise you get some (worthless) gimmick from him. "Can the can" or How to hit two flies with one smash: Solve an environmental problem by compressing the can and get some gimmick due to the final can size. (140km)
03Jul91 Passing corn and fruit fields, sometimes cattle. Arrival in Zion Lutheran Hostel in Hutchinson. Bought a complete new rim including professional spoking at Harley's Bike Shop. Good work! (77km)
04Jul91 Caroline McHugh or Rhapsody in Green and Blue. Lay over day and Independence Day. We watched the parade on Main Street. I had problems in sharing this glorification of the "fighters for freedom" e.g. in Vietnam or in Kuwait. Rode with light luggage only to Yoder, an Amish settlement 15km south of Hutchinson. Had to pass this Highway 50. I only missed some "You will be shot if you don't stop" hint. Got my first flat tire there, after 3400km without such problems! And no adequate means to mend it. Kaim, an Amish farmer tried to support me. It was nice talking to him in his old-style German dialect, with words not used in spoken German any more nowadays. Anyhow, after my patches didn't stick, I decided to walk my bike back. Fortunately Jim and Jane on their way to Hutchinson stopped by with their pick-up truck, offered me a lift and dropped me at our hostel in Hutchinson. I loved this hospitality! BTW, it stayed the only time, where my bike wasn't moved by me on this trip. Later at night we all went to the Fairground to watch the HutchFest and the fire work. (43km)
05Jul91 Passing a camel farm in Nickerson and oil tanks. -  Stopped a an artesian well. With temperatures of 40 degrees centigrade it was refreshing to let the cold water rinse over your T-shirt and your body. Due to some noises I must have made, a few of our party kept talking about the "ecstasy well". - Beware of Texas Tacks or Texas Goatheads! Never ride through grass in this area! I only walked my bike for 5 meters through high grass and got two punctures in the front wheel. Stop in Larned, Ks. (110km)
06Jul91 Still very hot (43 degrees centigrade in the shade - and there is no shade in Kansas!). Fighting against head winds (Lynn and Hugo). - Due to a lack of wood the barbered wire fence poles were made of stone in this area. - Arrival in Ness City and one more proof of the hospitality of the Kansas people. Rinny was invited by the Harrolds family to dinner. After she informed them about her party of eleven, we all were invited to a BBQ with steaks, salad and corn. Our thanks: a public rehearsal of the "Singing Treefrog Choir". (146km)
07Jul91 Still hot. Straight roads. Target: Scott City Athletic Club. (93km)
08Jul91 Start at 8:40. Tail wind for the first time in ten days - and cycling is like flying! Time zone warp (CDT -> MDT). Arrival in our suggested stop for the day (Tribune) already at 11:15. Discussions start about continuing still today or not ... At 12:40 the result - as expected after 90 minutes of discussions: Everyone wants to stay - but me. So I became a lonesome rider that afternoon. Next state line: Colorado. Final arrival in Eads at 18:00. And a free choice of rooms only for me at the 1st Baptist Church. (182km)
09Jul91 So I made me an additional lay-over day. Visit to the Kiowa County Museum. Marvelous open sky! In the afternoon black clouds and lightning in the north and blue, cloudless sky in the south at the same time. I love the high plains! (Bicycle was not moved today.)
10Jul91 Taking a look into the "smallest prison of the world" in Haswell, Co. Close to Haswell my front rack (a high rider!) broke. Provisional mending. Sugar City Junction Campground - our stay for the night. Did some laundry in the company of Lynn and Hugo and used the time for writing a diary, the base for this report ... (107km)
11Jul91 Side trip to the "Colorado State Correctional Facility". Frightening, how much money is put into this building. Money that might be missing for integrating the prisoners into society. - A "must" stop for every cyclist: Ding's Cafe in Olney Springs. - The Rocky Mountain range appears like a wall at the horizon. - Close to Boone: a partial eclipse of the sun. It became even a little bit less hot. - Ride along the Arkansas river in Pueblo, Co. with encouraging paintings. - I bought a new front rack. -  Our stay for the night: the Pueblo City Park. (113km)
12Jul91 Riding at the north banks of the Arkansas river. I had to walk my bike again at some steep ascents. - Arrival at Holy Cross Abbey in Canon City, one of the finest stays of the whole trip. We all went to the cinema ("Robin Hood" with Kevin Kostner) that night. Nice fairy tale ... (110km)
13Jul91 Lay-over day. We used the day for a rafting trip in the Royal Gorge. Some impressions: Linda and Volker, one half our our group and the other half. Indian Museum in the Holy Cross Abbey.
14Jul91 Steady climbing. We are now really in the Rockies. West of Guffey, Co. One more puncture and its mending - without replacing the tube. And one more marvelous view: after a small summit we all were enchanted by this view:  the South Park with its snow peaked mountains ahead of us. At Harstel, Co. (100km)
15Jul91 Passing Fairplay and Alma. THE summit of our ride (and the first of seven continental divides to come): Hoosier Pass (3518m). Steep descent to Breckenridge, Co. (69km)
16Jul91 Lay-over day. I fell in love with the "Super Slide" and squandered $29.50 for the tickets. It was worth it! - We finished the day in the Breckenridge Brewery. Nice place (sorry, Lynn).
17Jul91 First (and only) fall due to strong vibrations of my front rack. Passing Frisco, Co. on our way to Kremmling. Our stay for the night: a small lawn behind the police station. I grant me a hotel room near by for $11, instead. (100km)
18Jul91 Next continental divide: Dave and Ed at Muddy Pass. Crossing North Park. Short climb to Peterson Ridge, gentle descent to Walden, Co. On cooking duty tonight: Peter and Volker. Tried to get some potato stew boiling in spite of  heavy wind and rain (I / II). (104km)
19Jul91 Sunrise over Walden, Co. Next State line: Wyoming. Still crossing North Park. Arrival in Grant Encampment. Visit to the museum (with a two-story outhouse). (88km)
20Jul91 One more hot spa: Saratoga Hot Hobo Pool - don't miss it! Dave and Ed struggling. Crossing North Platte River. The only time we had to ride on an Interstate (I-80), but the next road would have been 80km away. If it were only 1094 miles to go to our final destination, but we as cyclist endured even more miles!  - Worth a visit: Fort Steele Historic Site, next to the historic first intercontinental train track. 19:05 Arrival in Rawlins, Wy. (115km)
21Jul91 A visit to the Prison Museum in Rawlins. The real gas chamber (5 human beings murdered) and the last view directly under a gallows hook in the ceiling (9 human beings murdered). - Passing the Great Divine Basin (with two Continental Divides), Split Rock and some of the oldest rocks formations (1.4 * 10^9 years old) in the USA. Our target in this remote area: Jeffrey City Baptist Church. (118km)
22Jul91 Rinny keeps on pumping with moderate success ... until someone told her to unscrew the valve. Rolling grass lands. I stopped at Sweetwater Station for two beers - delicious. Passing Beaver Rim and  Twin Creek Valley on our way to Lander, Wy. (110km)
23Jul91 Short stop at Fort Washakie Indian Craft Shop. Riding through Wind River Valley with colorful sandstone. Our target: Dubois Circle-Up Camper Ground. (129km)
24Jul91 At early afternoon Togwotee Pass. Cold drizzling rain, changing to ice rain. I'm riding for the first time in this trip with three layer of trousers/underwear and with my boots on. Anyhow, nice descent into Buffalo Fork Valley up to Colter Bay Camp. (116km)
25Jul91 Lay-over day. Woke up by by rain drops, but the sun won soon. Nice touristy programs: a demonstration of how to set up a tipi, Indian Arts Museum and a movie about Ishi, the last "wild" indian in California. I hiked from Coulter Bay Trail Head to Swan Lake to Heron Pond. Back to the camp ground at 16:00 ("tent guard").
26Jul91 Great view at the Tetons above Jackson Lake. Entering Yellowstone National Park. The valleys are still scarred by the big fire 3 years ago, in '88. A view back to the Tetons at Lewis Falls. One more Continental Divide. And finally arrival at Grant Village Campground. (86km)
27Jul91 Lay-over day. A land of marvel and wonder. Hot steamy springs, bisons roaming around cars or around bisons or around signs, mud volcanos, Yellowstone River and its Lower Falls, also seen from Inspiration Point. A land of marvel and wonder. - Met on my way back Christa Boehnke and her family from Germany. (147km - on a lay-over day!)
28 Jul91 Two more Continental Divides - the second one at Isa Lake, which feeds the Atlantic and the Pacific Ocean, as well. Old Faithful geyser (announced and real), the Morning Glory Pool and a black creek close to Firehole Lake drive. - Next state line: Montana. Back into real life, with all its glamour and advertising. Four fuel bottles (sorry again, Lynn) at Wagon Wheel Campground in West Yellowstone, Mt. (100km)
29Jul91 Passing Hebgen Lake and Quake Lake, which was created by a land slide in '59. Our stop for this day: Community Park in Ennis, Mt. (120km)
30Jul91 First stop in Virginia City, Mt. Train ride with a narrow gauge train to Nevada City (2.5km each). Former gold rush country. Passing Sheridan, Twin Bridges and Beaverhead Rock and ending at the City Park in Dillon, Mt. BTW, Montana is the first state on our trip without state sales tax. I love it! Why can't the final price be always tagged at the goods? Why isn't there a nation-wide consumers' rebellion against that bad surprise at the cash registers? Such a pricing would be unbelievable in Europe! (125km)
31Jul91 Ascent to Badger Pass and to Big Hole Pass. Enjoy Hot Springs at Jackson, Mt. together with Paul. After three beers cycling was like flying to Wisdom (American Legion Memorial Park, very rustic). We met Glen there, an Irish cowboy and invited him for supper. (113km)
01Aug91 Ascent to Big Hole National Battlefield, the site of an unjustified attack of the US army against a group of Nez Perce indians in 1877, and further on to Chief Joseph Pass. Steep down hill ride for 14 km. Saw first and only black cyclist on all the trip. Darby Tipi Hostel. (more than 102 km)
02Aug91 Prepared by Paul, our tour leader, I watch out for a "Noble Water Stop" sign, erected by a friendly bike stopper. I saw the sign, stopped at the first house behind, got invited by Walt, the owner, had some nice talk and a glass of fresh lemon juice. At the end I asked him, how often cyclists stop at his home. "You are the first one. The sign was set up by my neighbor." - Mail stop in Lolo, final stop in Missoula, Mt., the headquarters of (formerly) Bikecentennial (now: Adventure Cycling). We all went to "Red Pies over Montana (Italian restaurant), then a few of us to "Top Hat", with blues by Cash McCall. Back at the KOA Kampground at 02:00. (133km)
03Aug91 Lay-over day. Relaxing in Missoula. Did some shopping (e.g. a solar mobile shower, which paid off a few times in the meantime). Dave Durnford brings an old-fashioned ice machine to the campground, with all necessary ingredients: ice, salt, milk. We keep on stirring ... (appr. 10km)
04Aug91 Back to Lolo and up the Lolo Creek Valley. We follow the traces of the Lewis and Clark route now. I managed the final 9 km with 5 % grade without walking, like Rinny and Ed. At Lolo Pass one more time zone and state line change (MDT -> PDT, Mt.-> Id.). Steep descent into the Lochsa River gorge. We had to buy some food at Lochsa Lodge and proceeded to Jerry Johnson Camp Site (very rustic, again). After setting up our tents we rode to the "Warm Springs", enjoying a spiritual experience in the nature. (128km)
05Aug91 Steadily riding downhill along the banks of the Lochsa River. We visited the Historical Lochsa Ranger Station, with a rest for Hugo and Lynn, whereas Ralph keeps on riding. Too many nasty log trucks. Our day ended at the Kooshia Presbyterian Church. (128km)
06Aug91 Breakfast: pancakes with syrup. On the road at 07:20, rolling along the South Fork Clearwater River, after Harpster steep uphill. A visit to the Nez Perce Battlefield. Steep downhill ride (with  up to 7% grade and up to 58km/h) on New White Bird Hill Road. Salmon River Canyon. 20 minutes after a short dip in the Salmon River the T-shirt and shorts are dry again. Our proposed stay for the night at Squaw Creek Resort in Riggins, Id. was canceled, for it was closed down one month ago. Too few cyclists? (121km)
07Aug91 Slow, long lasting climb (like old, cold chewing gum) to New Meadows, Id. Halfway - north-south wise. In the afternoon slow descent through the Weiser River Valley to Council, Id. (Adams County Park). (103km)
08Aug91 1st Coors in Council. 2nd Coors in Mesa. 3rd Coors in Cambridge. 4th Coors (a little bit warmer) at the summit after Pine Creek. Steep downhill into Snake River Canyon. Dave and his "Cannondeer". Our Target for the night: Oxbow Dam Campsite. Our last state line change is ahead: from Idaho to Oregon. (107km)
09Aug91 Gerry between Halfway and Richland, Or. Slight ascend through the Powder River Canyon, together with Rinny. Worth a short break at Flagstaff Hill: the Oregon Trail Monument. We set up our tents in front of the YMCA in Baker, Or. (120km)
10Aug91 Lay-over day in Baker. We watch some parade (with the Shriners, turkish dressed, so far away from Turkey ...).
11Aug91 Late start in Baker, at 08:45 (as usual after lay-over days). Powder River Valley and Phillips Lake. 4km ahead of Sumpter Junction the "Sumpter Valley Railway McEven Depot", with a steam engine still operated. 1st climb to Sumpter Summit. Whitney: nearly a ghost town. 2nd climb to Tipton Summit. Another artesian well, but no ecstasy well this time, for the temperatures are not high enough to wet the T-shirt. 3rd climb to Dixie Summit. Rolling down into the John Day River Valley. Prairie City, Assembly of God church. Shower only in the Depot Park. Men's shower is out of order, whereas Ladies' is permanent running. We all used the Ladies'...  (117km)
12Aug91 Definitely worth a visit in John Day, Or.: the Kam Wah Chung & Co. Museum, a complete china town in one house. - A few km ahead of Mount Vernon: a flat in the front wheel tube. I mend it, pump it up - and the tube bursts! I put in the spare tube, pump it up - and I notice a flat in the rear wheel tube! Today is not my day! Dayville, Presbyterian Church. - We (Ralph , the Gordons and me) are offered a side trip by car to the "John Day Fossil Beds Visitor Center", unfortunately closed for today. We all agree, that after moving with the speed of a cyclist for nearly three months now, the speed, a car forces us to register impressions now, is too high for us. One more map meeting (here with Hugo and Lynn). (77km)
13Aug91 Though Picture Gorge to the "John Day Fossil Beds Visitor Center", again. And it's opened now. - Climbing up through Mountain Creek Canyon to Keyes Creek Summit. Down to Mitchell, Or. and up again to Ochoco Pass. We stay at the Ochoco State Park, for 2$ per nose. (140km)
14Aug91 Passing Prineville. On our way along the Crooked River first sights of the Three Sisters, snow covered former volcanoes. Redmond - and I know that we are back in civilization. To are all invited to the Evered Ranch, where we set up our tents or hammocks. Watching the sunset from a hill behind the ranch (Rinny). Our thank for the hospitality we encounter: one more public rehearsal of the "Singing Treefrog Choir". (79km)
15Aug91 Beautiful sun rise. Passing through still sleepy Sisters, Or. For the McKenzie Pass was closed for the through traffic, we had to use the alternate route via Santiam Pass, with magnificent views to Mt. Washington. Refreshing: Belknap Hot Springs - and worth the 3$. Blue River campground. (112km)
16Aug91 For the first time since weeks cloudy sky. Lots of traffic on State Road 126. Our stay for the next two nights in Eugene, Or. is the 1st Christian Church. For taking a shower we ride to the Pedal Power Bike Shop ... - Paul takes video recordings of all of us and gets them copied for each of us. - Final dinner in an Italian restaurant (Gerry wants to leave our group the next day) - we are celebrating our successful finish (at least, until this night) of our feat of crossing the continent in great group harmony without injuries or accidents (Dave and Peter, Paul and Volker, Linda and Ed).  (min. 70km)
17Aug91 Lay-over day in Eugene. Saturday Market, a little bit fancy and weird and interesting. - Good to meet people with a clear mind like these protesting against the madness of war.  - Went to the musical "The Fantastiks" with Dave, Ed, Peter and Rinny. (16km)
18Aug91 Leaving Eugene at 18th Street, heading to the coast, to Florence, Or. directly. First stop to pick some raspberries. Very few traffic on Crow Road. After Noti, Or. much more "recreational traffic". After Walton, 20 km ahead of the Pacific coast line, our first tunnel at all; the first time that we are not riding on the surface of the continental USA! Little misunderstanding in Florence: I rode to Harbor Vista County Park, but couldn't any of our flock. So I returned to Florence (7km back), where I met Gerry, who informed me about our campsite in the RV Park at Harbor View Road in downtown Florence. The bad thing: I was on cooking duty today. Paul, my co-chef, was a little bit annoyed about my late arrival ... I skipped the re-baptizing of my bike in the waters of the Pacific Ocean for today.  - At this campsite I met Rob, who starts his ride across the USA (eastward bound) today. Very brave, so late in the year ... (136km)
19Aug91 Riding on the Highway 101, sometimes marked as "Oregon Coast Bike Route". My stops today: Darlingtonia Wayside, with insects luring and digesting plants; Carl Washburne Park, with Volker holding his feet in the cold ocean water and taking a nap on the warm sandy beach; Cape Perpetua Visitor Center, with a movie about the creation of the coast line; Seal Rock, to buy some fudge; and finally: Newport South Beach State Park. - Those of us, who are politically interested, are worried about the news from the USSR about the insurrection against Gorbatchev. (85km)
20Aug91 Light drizzle in the morning. I made the Otter Crest Loop to Cape Foulweather and Devil's Punchbowl. Some hefty climbs north of Cape Foulweather. Heavy traffic on the 101. In Lincoln City, Or. some kites: huge ones in the sky (compare their shadows!) and a small one on by bike. After Otis, Or. we are back to the "official" Bikecentennial route.  Worth the side trip: the Old Scenic Highway 101 to Neskowin. After Brooten Mtn. less traffic again. Our stay for the night: Sandlake Sand Beach U.S. Forest Service Park. (116km)
21Aug91 We start into coastal fog. 300m climb to Cape Lookout, unfortunately without any sight. Oceanside, with mediterrian feeling. Cape Meares State Park (Lighthouse, Octopus Tree). Tillamook and a visit to the Pioneer Museum. Unfortunately the Highway 101 is back to the coast again - with lots of traffic. Bay City. North of Manzanita first climb, at Cape Falcon the next one. Our reward: the views down to Cannon Beach. Our target for today: Cannon Beach Sea Ranch RV Village. We are all pretty exhausted by the climbs of today... (117km)
22Aug91 In Seaside, Or. the official "End of the Lewis and Clark Trail".  Over steep forest roads to the Lewis and Clark River and to Fort Clatsop National Memorial. Here the memory in the quest of those brave men, crossing the continent between 1803 and 1806, is kept by practically showing their way of living. A must on our way! - Entering Astoria, our most north-western point on our trip. - Departing from the Gordons, which stay on the coast on their way to Seattle, Wa. - We are heading inland again, south of the Columbia River, to Clatskanie, with the sun already throwing long shadows. (112km)
23Aug91 Passing Rainier, St. Helens, Scappoose to Portland. Youth Hostel. Hugo is celebrating his birthday with a "face pie" as one of our presents to him. (116km)
24Aug91 Definitely final farewell to the Treefrog Gang in a small restaurant in Portland (with Lynn, Hugo and Ralph). - My bicycle was cleaned to be ready for the return flight and many more rides to come.

A long journey came to an end - for now. We met as strangers and departed as friends. A few of us are still in contact: Volker visited the Gordons in New Zealand, the Gordons visited Volker in Germany, on another occasion Volker accompanied Peter on a bicycle ride along the Rhine river in Germany, Hugo and Lynn stayed in close contact for a while ... and if any of our gang happens to read these lines or looks at these pictures and wants to share his very personal memories with another treefrog, I would be very pleased to get an email from him or her.


This presentation is sponsored by Volker B. Radek